Saturday, January 30, 2010

Kabul - Notes on Technology that I brought along

I have a Dell Netbook that is perfect. It was perfect in India. Perfect here in Kabul. I do not need an iPad.

I have a Samsung camera that has GPS services and wifi. I need to get its MAC address permited on the AUAf network and then will be able to upload pics. Until then I am using my google phone.

My Google phone is already on the network. The few pics that I have posted to my Facebook site are from that. It has wifi and direct connections to Facebook and Picasa so far. I am looking into an app to post to Flickr.

I need a card adaptor for my camera and video recorder. I want to be able to take out the card and dump the photos/videos directly. I hope to find that here or possibly in Dubai later in March or April or whenever I head that way.

The network itself is very sporadic. Sometimes I have no connection at all. Can't get to gmail, etc. So I am withdrawing slowly. I needed to learn to be less tech-oriented and dependent anyways, eh?

For those who want to visit me, I highly recommend your sending to me your MAC address(es) for any gadget you want to have online access for. It takes 2-3 days to get it into the network.

Hugs all!

Step

In Kabul - Fourth Day

Friday was shopping day. And then an evening at Taverna Du Liban and a night out at L'Atmosphere.

Shopping was exciting. I will be able to find anything I want or need. No worries about that. You just need enough dollars.

I signed up for the afternoon shopping tour. We went first to Spinneys. This is the same Spinney's as you would find in Dubai, but without a Pork Room. I was so happy when I found a few Dr. Peppers! I got everything that I thought that I needed and was the first back to the van. I was able to casually observe near the front of the van and on the steps of the Spinneys a man butchering a goat. He was skinning it at first and then lopped off the whole head. While I was coming down the stairs, he tossed it and it landed at my feet. I looked him in the eye and we both smiled. I stepped over the poor goat's head and met my supplies man from Spinneys where he loaded my bags into the car. You do not tip them, this is just their job.

Then we all went to the new Finest. Oh my! This place has everything including Dr. Peppers by the case. So amazing. I will want for nothing. I bought a can of crushed tomatoes and some pasta from Pakistan that I got mostly because the brand name was 'Cock'. I just find that kind of thing funny. Yes. I do.

Once we got back from shopping, I showered up and cleaned up my shoes (It has been rainy/snowy for three days now). I would be going out to an AUAf function/party next.

I was picked up with my friend, Bruce, and the legal counselor of AUAf, Mike. We were driven all over town to get to Taverna Du Liban, a wonderful, if slow, Lebanese restaurant. We joined a group of AUAf faculty and staff numbering about 20-25. There was a smoking end of the table and a non-smoking side. I was right in the middle next to Mike, the lawyer and some wonderful new colleagues.

Our conversation was lively at times. I defended Texas and the south in general. I defended Islam and Christianity to the extent that I was comfortable. I got along with everyone, too. I reminded my compadres that Vermont, too, has a constitutional right to leave the union if they so wished and just because Rick Perry was a big mouth about it, Vermonters have mulled it over a time or two recently themselves.

Then after dinner, our big group split up between those going home and those going out to L'Atmosphere. I joined the latter. And enjoyed a bit of scotch to wash down the kebbe.

L'Atmosphere or L'Atmo is the expat hang out. To enter, you welcome a pat down and a bag search. There was a man, not of our party, who felt comfortable joking about 'having everything they are looking for' during his pat down. He then listed those items off; "knives, guns, IEDs"... and no one smiled at him. You go through several locked doors before you enter the compound. They do not open the next one until the other is closed and locked. Yes, I felt comfortable enough.

The bar was very crowded. Lots of young expats hoping for a good time that night. I got my rounds of scotch and followed the leader to a more quiet room where we all just grooved quietly with a spattering of conversations. It was just a shared moment of ahhhh. Relaxation, Kabul-style.

Then I shared a taxi with two AUAf women colleagues and was back at the guest house by about midnight. That was my first Friday night in Kabul.

In Kabul - Third Day (Thursday)

I got up to no power and took another darkly lit shower. Readied myself for the day in the dark and definitely was fighting a cold.

I was determined to go to work, follow-up on the technology issues and the power issue.

I accomplished my goals and then had lunch with new colleagues and met with my new boss in the afternoon until a 2:30 shuttle was available. I was driven home to a room that still had no power.

So I took a nap.

Then around 4:30, there were all of a sudden men in my room that I surprised by waking up and saying hello. The blankets on my bed must just look like a big mound of covers with me inside. They gracefully apologized and flipped off the lights. Once they closed the door, I flipped them back on and jumped for joy. Let there be light! I said over and over with a giggle.

Nap over, I proceeded to catch up on powering up my various tools and toys.

The cold was still present, but I would get through that.

Life is good!

In Kabul - Second Day

I woke up my second day in Kabul with no electricity. This was to be my first day on campus.

I had not turned up my heat enough in my room overnight and I was quite cold. I took a shower in the bathroom, enjoying only the light from the rising sun through a 1' x 1' window. I readied myself for the day.

I arrived on campus on the regularly scheduled on the hour shuttle. I was greeted by Mike and began a quick tour on the way to the Human Resources offices on the AUAf campus. I was swept through with a tour by the Director of HR. I visited all of the major administrative offices: Finance, IT, the President's office, etc.

Then to the library where I met my colleagues, Laila and Hamayoun along with Mike. We had lunch together and shared some good conversations.

This is Wednesday and I tried to get as much done as possible with regard to technology and paperwork.

I came home in the late afternoon, but before the end of the workday. Power had been restored, but within half an hour it was out again.

It is raining and cold.

I was starting to feel a cold coming in to my sinuses. It was starting to feel like Kabul was a very uncomfortable place. So when the sun went down, I put myself to bed. Not pouting, but feeling like I wanted a little more control over my environment and health. Neither was coming very quickly.

In Kabul - First Day, Part 3.

When I think about the shopping day, I am confronted again by my first struggle with poverty. As soon as I exited the blue van (I was out first), a burka clad woman asked me for money. I said, 'ney', no. She then touched my arm, pleading with me. I said, ney, ney and walked into the store where I proceeded to spend $27 USD.

How will I deal with this? My only consolation is that her grip on my arm was strong and she moved fast and no one hurt her in that moment. I am rich. I need wisdom in this area. I will be working with the rich of Afghanistan, not the poor. I do not understand what, "the poor, you will always have with you" means.

When we got back to the guest house, I started in on my room. My bags had basically remained zipped up. After a little bit of work, I knew that I needed a short nap. I lay myself down on my newly made up bed, enjoying the comforts of flannel sheets, a wool blanket and two afghan covers (so heavy you can NOT lift them in the air and toss them to make the bed; you rather roll them over the bed until they lay where you need them to be).

I was immediately called for by my neighbor Bruce who wanted to order a pizza and then by Mike on the phone who was checking in on me. I agreed to the pizza order and told Mike I was a-ok. The pizza arrived at 6:30, but I was too tired by then to enjoy it, so off to the freezer it went. [I finally got to it on Saturday, several days later.]

I slept then until about midnight and then checked online. They had finally fixed that for me in the afternoon, assigning my netbook's MAC address to the network. I tried to call my sister on Skype. She could hear me, but I could not hear her. I further tested the network and concluded that my internet access here is poor. I am way too far away from the wireless router.

I emailed my sister and told her I tried, but worried that she would think something was wrong. She could hear me, though, so knew that I just could not hear her.

Then I Live Messenger'd the family house and reached both mom and dad. We chatted a while successfully and included a video chat. Again, I could not hear them, but they could hear me just fine.

I went back to sleep about 2 a.m. Sometime during then and 7 a.m., the electricity to my room and bathroom went out. I now had no lights or power for my computer, etc. I still had hot water and power for my heat source. I just took a shower in the mostly dark bathroom. I was glad that I had already set it up and knew how everything worked.

That was my first day/night in Kabul.

In Kabul - First Day, Part 2.

The roads are dirt. They have trash littered in the street crossing areas. I observed a dog eating the discarded head of a long-horned beast. There were few people encountered. 99 percent of them were men. Some of the buildings were more new, others old with the adobe/mud style that is so common here. All were gated. I learned later that you know the street from Darulaman Road and then count the gates to your building. That's how you navigate.

My house is not brand new, but it is definitely not old. There is a pleasing guard house and guard bath, then the 'big house' where I live. In the back are at least one additional building where the higher admins live. The grounds are planted with roses and I observed birds tweeting and finding things to eat all around. The yard even has a swing set for a child. The house does have a young child living amongst us. He is four years old and named Henry. Lovely young man.

My room is near the front entry and my bath is not connected, but adjacent. I have to remember that it is completely public space when I want to run to the restroom! I must remember to procure a bathrobe when I return to the USA in July.

Two of my four walls are floor to ceiling windows. I get LOTS of natural light. In the top of one, the heating unit has its wires and cabling tunneled through the glass. Which means there is a slight, quarter-sized gap in the pane that lets in fresh air. There are four sections that are able to be opened and they are screened.

I have a queen-sized bed that my flannel sheets and wool blanket fit perfectly on. I have two regular sized, locally made pillows. The bed is more or less hard as a rock. Which means I am in heaven. I am so not a cushy kind of gal. The locally made pillows are stuffed with maybe a mixture of feathers and fabric leavings. I am not sure. I hope to replace or add to them before any guests arrive! They serve their function which is to prop me up to read my books.

My storage area is a floor to ceiling built in with various sections having locks and mirrors or just windows. I share a door with a woman (my neighbor), but it has been firmly locked and paneled. My front door has a basic locking mechanism that promises me that I will lock myself out at least once during my time here. I have one key to that door and three to my bathroom.

The floor is an industrial strength brown carpet. I have a sitting chair, a desk with lockable drawers, and a desk chair. The final pieces of furniture are two very short, but practical side tables. I moved one near the front door for my keys and cell phones charging station and the other next to the bed.

My bathroom was a bit filthy, but I expected that. I donned heavy gloves and cleaned everything up before I had to use it. I have a shower, western toilet and a sink. The lighting in both the bath and the bedroom are minimal, but serve their purpose.

After spending a few hours looking around and exploring the house and meeting a few new neighbors, I was picked up at 1 p.m. to go shopping. My new neighbor and colleague, Bruce, joined us. Mike coordinated this little excursion. I picked up some noodles, peanut butter and bread. I also got some washing detergent and other necessities.

The place that we went shopping was nearby and for locals more than expats. The driver stayed with the car and our handler accompanied us inside.

When I exited the van a local woman touched me and asked for money. She touched my arm and grabbed my elbow for my attention. I said, ney, ney (no, no), but my heart is still struggling with it. The women who beg will be something I will have to come to understand and to forgive myself that they exist and there is little I can do. I struggle with what 'the poor, you will always have with you' means.

In Kabul - First Day, Part 1.

I am have a semi-eventful week. Starting on Sunday, January 24th, when I headed out from the USA on an American Airlines jet to Frankfurt. On time and baggage accounted for, I headed straight for my connecting terminal and put my baggage into storage. I would wait approximately 10 hours for my connecting flight to Kabul on Safi Airways. Other than paying too much for everything in Europe (come on American Dollar!), I had a completely acceptable day.

Both the DFW to FRA and the FRA to KBL flights were over half empty. I had a row to myself to Frankfurt and a window seat/aisle to myself to Kabul. I slept quite well.

My arrival in Kabul was at the break of dawn. You could see the sun cresting over the mountains and the valley with its farmlands waking up with color. It is winter here and mostly shades of brown. Landing in Kabul was easy and the bus taking us to the new terminal clean and efficient. The plane was full of what looked to be ex military and businessmen. Only a few men wore local garb.

At the airport arrivals we first went through immigration. My visa was in order. The men had to get their photo taken. The women get to endure barely a glance and a quick stamp. Nothing to it. You exit immigration hall to the right and approach the baggage claim area. I was greeted warmly by a young Afghan man asking me to hire him to help with my baggage. I gladly did so. I would hire him for 5 dollars (and a tip) to carry my four heavy bags. He communicated with his handler about the transaction and nods were shared. Then we waited for the bags. My first of four arrived early and the rest were not the last. We then piled everything onto the cart and got in line with many local men all in traditional garb. Their luggage was tightly tied blankets that were white with woven belts to fasten them safely. We cut in line ahead of them. It was a kind of 'merger' but they were definitely there before I was.

All of our luggage had to be scanned. I could not tell that anyone was actually watching the scanner. The guards were blissfully chatting about something funny to them. As soon as we were through the scanning, my bags were loaded back on to the same cart and we headed towards the front of the terminal and out the building to the parking area.

I was to be picked up at Parking Lot C. That is the farthest from the terminals. You walk out front and to the left. There is a sidewalk that dips ever so often for drainage. The sidewalk is smooth and the effort to roll a baggage cart with about 200 lbs of weight did not seem to be a problem for the young man. Periodically, especially after a dip in the sidewalk, the luggage would need to be adjusted as it was piled nearly as high as he was tall.

You walk along the path with the old terminal on your left. The old terminal has a now closed, u-shaped road. You walk past the old terminal and approach an active road, which you must cross. Once you are across the street, you approach the first guard gate. They make sure that no one without a boarding pass gets through. And they are in ANA uniforms (dark green) and armed. This is Parking Lot P. You walk all the way through Parking Lot P to a narrow passage approaching the gate for Parking lot C. Parking Lot C also has a guard gate, a guard house and a more narrow passage way where people are coming in and going out. This is interesting with a baggage cart heavily loaded, but we passed without incident. There are good reasons to be a woman in this country sometimes! Just past the guard gate are those waiting for you to arrive.

My new boss and our handler were waiting there for me with a sign with my name and the emblem of the American University of Afghanistan. I greeted them and alerted my baggage man. We then walked together another 50 yards or so to the 4x4. We loaded up the bags and I paid my baggage man 5 dollars as promised plus a dollar tip. I have been told that you can get away with about 3 bucks in negotiations, but after the distance we traveled, I was glad we were all untoppled and all together.

We went straight from the airport to the guest houses. A professor of Mathematics was with us and he was dropped off first. Then I got to see my new, albeit temporary digs.